The highlight of Israel has to be Jerusalem. Where else in the world but the old city can you walk down a cobble stone lane next to an Orthodox Christian, devout Muslim and Hasidic Jew. They may not be hangin’ with each other but they are certainly co-existing and not necessarily confined to ‘their” unique sectors (Muslim, Jewish, Christian, Armenian). Even the gift shops are multi-belief with displays from all three dominant mono-theistic religions, be they crucifixes, Chanukah candles, rosary beads, Quran extracts or Yarmulkes.
Blasphemy warning: seems commerce ultimately wins out potential faith conflicts.
It is even more impressive that the Dome of the Rock is essentially adjacent to the Wailing Wall, and just down the street (Via Delarosa) from the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.
These are amongst the most holy sites for all three religions. We were also lucky enough to follow a Bar-Mitzvah procession through the laneways to the culmination at the Western (or “Wailing”) Wall, and then celebrated with some awesome apple strudel at the Austrian hospice. While there may be bona fide tensions in the air, once inside the 5000 year old walls of the Old City, spirituality (and the aforementioned accompanying commerce) seem to be the real dominant forces.
These are amongst the most holy sites for all three religions. We were also lucky enough to follow a Bar-Mitzvah procession through the laneways to the culmination at the Western (or “Wailing”) Wall, and then celebrated with some awesome apple strudel at the Austrian hospice. While there may be bona fide tensions in the air, once inside the 5000 year old walls of the Old City, spirituality (and the aforementioned accompanying commerce) seem to be the real dominant forces.
The views from the rampart walk offer a more detached and secular view of the unique architectural styles and historical perspectives (i.e. Jerusalem defense postures from the time of Herod through the division of the city between Jordan and Israel in the 1980’s). There are even excavated caves and tunnels from Roman times.
Yad Va Shem (the stirring memorial and museum of the Holocaust) is a 20 minute city bus ride across town in the modern city. It is hard to imagine how to best treat the subject matter, but this complex does justice to both the history and commemoration. The museum is an extended A-frame concrete spartan structure (designed by Moshe Safde of Habitat Expo 67 fame – for a Canuck connection), with a chronological view of events in smaller side rooms. From the rise of the Nazi party, through the second world war events, concentration camp details (and compelling survivor accounts), through to explore the lesser known post war events (i.e. first world refusals of refugees, displaced orphans, circuitous routes of migration to Israel). Beyond the museum building itself are various memorials to resistance fighters, no longer existent European communities and maybe the most impactful, a separate building containing a large dark glass maze with reflecting omni-directional memorial candles and an ominous voice performing roll call of all the children killed in the holocaust.
Our entry into Israel was 5 days earlier via the southern port of Eilat, an Israeli resort getaway with desert and seaside activities, which at the time of our arrival was hopping for the last two days of Chanukah.
It was Menorah mayhem, with the ubiquitous candelabra showing up everywhere (behind the immigration officer at the border, attached to the top of a cab, at major highway intersections, in mall, hotel and bus station lobbies (it was like Christmas – uh, oh, that may cost some points back home).
It was Menorah mayhem, with the ubiquitous candelabra showing up everywhere (behind the immigration officer at the border, attached to the top of a cab, at major highway intersections, in mall, hotel and bus station lobbies (it was like Christmas – uh, oh, that may cost some points back home).
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