Bohemian Rhapsody (Tanzania)

Dar Es Salaam is pretty much the commercial, industrial and, judging by the number of Government buildings, administrative capital of Tanzania (despite the official Capital being Dodoma a few hundred kms south).  But that doesn’t make “Dar” any more attractive or interesting – it’s really just a transit point for the ferries to Zanzibar (Island).

We took the mid-morning “fast” ferry, guaranteed to be there in one and three quarter hours.  After two and a half hours we swung around the main Island attraction – historic Stone Town (another UNESCO World Heritage Site) and slid into dock.  Zanzibar’s history is a bit notorious as a slave-for-spice trading centre.

Originally an Omani sultanate, it was just in 1964 when a treaty was signed that created Tanzania (by joining the island with the mainland then known as Tanganyika).  That said, the island still has its own supplementary immigration process complete with entry card, passport stamp and Yellow Fever health checks.  It is also incidentally, the birthplace of Freddie Mercury – lead singer of the rock band Queen.

This was going to be the long rest mid-trip (no animals, no antiquities, no museums)   - just ‘chillin'.  We checked into our quiet and quaint Beach Villa apartment, complete with traditional Zanzibar wood carved furniture (that helps spread the mosquito netting evenly), stone-tile flooring, a fridge, AC, a sea view porch, swimming pool, restaurant and even WiFi, all about two kilometers from the bustling town (luxury for us  - at $80/night B&B).

We had easily fallen prey to the “bohemian /veg” life.  But by day two – we decided it would probably be appropriate to check out “Town”, maybe a few shops, get some provisions (for the fridge) and hit a local restaurant.  Stone Town proved to be quite tourist oriented, which given our mood suited us quite fine.  There are options to go to forest areas for animal viewing, diving and snorkeling, or to pristine beach coves on the Island or on adjacent islets. 

We chose to do none of that, save for a few hours touring some spice plantations (after all it is called the “Spice Island”).   It was quite interesting to find out the natural source for many of these exotic flavour enhancers, and we did some time on one of those secluded beach coves en route back (after learning some of the slave history as well).

The rest of our time was spent checking out the alleyways and side streets of Stone Town (because of the Arab influence it had many features of the traditional Medina we had encountered in North Africa).   But to our surprise (and a pleasant one at that) the food is mostly influenced from the East, with curries, Biryani and other Indian favourites and a few stews.  We also noticed quite few Italian restaurants, which thought might be some throwback to an earlier colonization, but is more likely due to the fact that there are direct flights to the Island from Rome.

Forodhani Gardens  along the sea wall comes alive every night with food stalls hawking the days catch in kebab format (Tandoori Lobster skewers)for dinner and sweet pancakes (with nutella, banana, chocolate and honey) that they call pizzas.  Not a bad meal for $8.

The area also has entertainment with a local flavour as the fishermen take turns performing acrobatic dives and flips into the sea from the adjacent rock ledges.  With an average daytime high while we were there approaching 40C, the evening cool dip seems to be an appropriate diversion. 

Being sufficiently chilled ourselves after five days on Zanzibar, we grabbed the “real” fast ferry back to Dar for an overnight before heading East across the “Southern Africa” countries, beginning with Zambia.

For the first time in two months through East Africa, we would be moving beyond the reach most prominent and influential geological and geographical influence in the regions – “Great Rift Valley” – which has run through or adjacent to each of the seven countries we have visited since Egypt.

Now we are headed to another rift – the gaping Victoria Falls. 

For more Tanzania photos - check out flickr at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thegoobers_pics/sets/72157626176861754/